The stretch from Horseshoe Mesa across the Tonto Platform and down to the bottom of the canyon at Bright Angel Campground was the longest leg of the trip. It was also the flatest. The interesting part about hiking parallel to the river is that it was never a straight line for any real distance. We followed the contour of the Tonto. That meant tracing back toward the rim (and away from the river) around side canyons. The most significant one was the Grapevine detour. Standing on one side of Grapevine creek, we could see the other side maybe 300 to 400 yards away -- with Grapevine Creek hundreds of feet below us in the ravine. That meant walking 4.5 miles out toward the South Rim and then back again (crossing the creek when it met our elevation) to find ourselves looking across Grapevine Creek to where we were standing 4.5 miles ago. The guys found this baffling at first. At least it made a great break spot when we got to the creek. This is where my camera went for an unauthorized swim (and promptly died).
By the time we met up with the S. Kaibab Trail, which led us to the bottom, we had gone through Cremation Canyon. I know why it got its name. We were hiking in January but temperatures here were well above 80 degrees. Some of us got a little sunburn. Can't imagine what it would be like in July or August. Cremation Canyon is one of those places the Rangers warn about during the peak season.
The last mile down the Kaibab Trail is a leg burner and feet killer -- very steep. The Black Bridge at the bottom is a lot longer than you expect, but the kids really liked this part. The river was brown and full because of all the rain over the last few months. Normally, the water is low and clear. This is a rare sight these days.
We left Bright Angel Camp and the Phantom Ranch on Day 4 to strike out on the north side of the river. The topography on the north side is remarkably different from the South Rim side. From South Rim to river is 7 or 10 miles (depending on the trail you take). From North Rim to river is more than 14 miles. What makes this difference? All of the precipitation that falls on the North Rim drains into the canyon, whereas all the precipitation that falls on the south side drains away from the canyon.
This difference creates the different landscape. The north side is much more open and spacious. The water flowing into the canyon from the North Rim over millions of years has opened up more area among the buttes, spires, mesas, and peaks on the north side than the south side. This is very obvious on any large topo map of the canyon. More distance has eroded toward the North Rim than the South Rim creating amazing topography.
The Clear Creek Trail took us back toward the same direction we came from (east) on the north Tonto Platform. We could look across the river at points on the same elevation and see where we had been two days earlier. Finally, the Clear Creek trail took us away from the river and toward the North Rim. Our campground was only a couple thousand feet below the North Rim. This part of the trip was secluded and quiet; we didn't see anyone for our entire time at Clear Creek. Parts of the trail were totally washed away. We also found evidence of ancient native American populations and some really neat rock formations to investigate. We dropped our gear where the trail ended (our campsite) and went exploring. It is hard to describe the surrounding area. It was as if we were in a humongus ampitheater circled by every kind of feature around us towering into the sky. Perhaps that is why so many features in this area bear religious names on the map. It was a most naturally conducive place for prayer and meditation. The beauty and peace seeps into the soul.
Every side canyon could be its own adventure, for days and days if you had food and water.
and down to the bottom of the canyon at Bright Angel Campground was the longest leg of the trip. It was also the flatest. The interesting part about hiking parallel to the river is that it was never a straight line for any real distance. We followed the contour of the Tonto. That meant tracing back toward the rim (and away from the river) around side canyons. The most significant one was the Grapevine detour. Standing on one side of Grapevine creek, we could see the other side maybe 300 to 400 yards away -- with Grapevine Creek hundreds of feet below us in the ravine. That meant walking 4.5 miles out toward the South Rim and then back again (crossing the creek when it met our elevation) to find ourselves looking across Grapevine Creek to where we were standing 4.5 miles ago. The guys found this baffling at first. At least it made a great break spot when we got to the creek. This is where my camera went for an unauthorized swim (and promptly died).
Cremation Canyon. I know why it got its name. We were hiking in January but temperatures here were well above 80 degrees. Some of us got a little sunburn. Can't imagine what it would be like in July or August. Cremation Canyon is one of those places the Rangers warn about during the peak season.
the Kaibab Trail is a leg burner and feet killer -- very steep. The Black Bridge at the bottom is a lot longer than you expect, but the kids really liked this part. The river was brown and full because of all the rain over the last few months. Normally, the water is low and clear. This is a rare sight these days.
and the Phantom Ranch on Day 4 to strike out on the north side of the river. The topography on the north side is remarkably different from the South Rim side. From South Rim to river is 7 or 10 miles (depending on the trail you take). From North Rim to river is more than 14 miles. What makes this difference? All of the precipitation that falls on the North Rim drains into the canyon, whereas all the precipitation that falls on the south side drains away from the canyon.
different landscape. The north side is much more open and spacious. The water flowing into the canyon from the North Rim over millions of years has opened up more area among the buttes, spires, mesas, and peaks on the north side than the south side. This is very obvious on any large topo map of the canyon. More distance has eroded toward the North Rim than the South Rim creating amazing topography.
earlier. Finally, the Clear Creek trail took us away from the river and toward the North Rim. Our campground was only a couple thousand feet below the North Rim. This part of the trip was secluded and quiet; we didn't see anyone for our entire time at Clear Creek. Parts of the trail were totally washed away. We also found evidence of ancient native American populations and some really neat rock formations to investigate. We dropped our gear where the trail ended (our campsite) and went exploring. It is hard to describe the surrounding area. It was as if we were in a humongus ampitheater circled by every kind of feature around us towering into the sky. Perhaps that is why so many features in this area 
